356 Speedster Restoration

Life Begins at Forty

2009-08-12T09:18:00.000-07:00

Well, it's forty years after my car left VW as a beetle, fifteen years since it was turned into a speedster, nine years since I bought it, and one year since I was degreasing the underside with the body off...... it's finally MOT'd and back on the road again.Ta Da

Magic Carpet

2009-08-12T02:34:00.000-07:00

I think the carpet looks magic! .. and the footwell nolonger screams beetle...

Daylight Rubbery

2009-08-02T10:09:00.000-07:00

An aftermarket rubber mat for a real porsche 356 costs over 250 squid. With 20 quids worth of rubber mat roll and the dremmel I think Ive done a good enough job.

Tea and Biscuits

2009-07-22T11:22:00.000-07:00

It's much more fun fitting carpet than turning spanners! - but I'm not looking forward to sewing the edge trim. I went with biscuit colour square weave carpet for a more authentic look.

I made a sloping ledge from aluminium sheet to relocate my main speakers behind the seats, and moved the smaller door speakers to the footwells.

Beat It, Beat It, Beat It, Beat It

2009-07-20T13:51:00.000-07:00

I finally made a start on the sills to cover the heating plumbing...

Beaming

2009-07-20T13:42:00.000-07:00

Leaking gearbox oil - I took the rear disc off and everything looked fine but I made an extra o ring as oil had clearly gotten out somewhere before.

Weak Handbrake - The essential tool for taking the handbrake off is a magnet on telescopic rod - for when it all falls apart and drops into the chassis tunnel!
The manual says not to press the button when dismantling - and I swear I didn't!

Ball Joints and Steering - Out with the old : Worn Ball Joints and Sloppy steering gone!

In with the new : Double Wishbone and rack&pinion steering thanks to Red9Design.

Balls! MOT Failed...

2009-05-07T12:32:00.000-07:00

Well ball joints actually, excessive play? they should have seen the use I got out of the last set!

Lowered beetles are going to go through standard ball joints, there are longer aftermarket ones which are meant to improve their wear.

Its a nasty job replacing them, I felt they were good enough to pass - I could go to another MOT place and they pass, yet I really should have done them whilst the body was off.

Although the top torsion arm on oneside also has alot of play in/out I'll see whats going on there when I take the arms off.

It also failed on the handbrake being too weak, I had such a mare fitting the shortened cables for the new aftermarket discs that I ended up with no adjustment (not realising the handbrakes pivot is held withan E clip). Ill take the handbrake off this time and leave full adjustment after shortening the cables some more.

That wasnt it though, the short journey to the MOT and theres gearbox oil on the rear disc!

Its come from the paper gasket in the mount at the wheel end of the axle - so Im hoping Ive just not torqued the 4 bolts enough when I converted to discs (the other side has a tiny bit of gearbox oil showing on the gasket but not enough to drip - So Ill tighten both sides to be safe.)

A couple of advisory notices were play in the steering and headlights are LHD? So some tape was required. I bought the US spec sloping headlights as a unit in the past as they are alot cheaper, and transfered my uk lenses. When rebuilding them with the new chrome rings I used the shiny new looking lenses I found in the garage - not thinking about them being US spec!

It was threatening to rain when I went for the test so I wasnt very bothered that I wasnt on the road yet....well not much!

I've since cracked on with the heating, whilst it looks like Ive ram raided a plumbers shop at present! It will be sweet when I've covered the pipes with fake sills and fitted the sliding heater vents in the footwell....

My main aim was to prevent rain water which puddles on the windsill and flows down the window vents from getting into the sills. My old rusted subframe had this problem and rusted from the inside out.

Oh and the doors... the doors fit flush at the front now, but still arent quite right. I'll worry about them when everything else is sorted though.

The Dukes of Hazzard

2009-04-18T06:50:00.001-07:00

I'm getting a bit bored of putting the doors on and off....

However, at least now they open/close (with some carefull effort)..

I can see the issue now, the hinges arent reaching their closed position.

My 'accurate' measurements were taken assuming the hinges closed.With a cardboard box for support, its a fiddly job getting the doors on and off, yet I'll need to get the hinge spacers reduced again! I was wondering if Dukes of Hazzard entry/entrance is allowed for the MOT?.

The brakes need another bleed too 8(

I'd hoped to fit a retracting seatbelt on the passenger side instead of a static belt, but the subframe is recessed from the body, so it wouldnt fit correctly. Thats put an MOT off till I get a static belt for the passenger seat.

Rain rain go away

2009-04-11T09:44:00.000-07:00

For the first time in months, Im able to drive in and out of the garage instead of needing to push.

The ignition problem was another corroded wire - a few inches passed the accessible point I was testing its current.

My measurements for the door hinge spacers were a few mm over, however I was then

able to offer the doors up to get an accurate measurement. Now they are off being reduced about 4mm each. I should have them back on next week...

Once the doors are on, I should be ready for an MOT.

2009-04-02T10:36:00.000-07:00

The JB Weld worked a treat, albeit 7 hours later (though the weather was cool) the wipers are working again.

I needed to make a new earth for the license plate/reverse lights as it had rusted beyond use and replace a couple of bulbs,

also the front indicator wires had corroded beyond their ability to transfer electricity.

The earth to the front beam was also rubbish - but only myself to blame from replacing the front beam about 6 years ago. This time I drilled and tapped a hole in the beam to insert a stubby screw and have a proper earth - instead of washers and electrical tape!

I had expected to just reconnect the wiring loom where I had cut it and everything work OK.

Well with the exception of the horn, and a suspected weak battery preventing it from trying to start, everything else works now.

I suspect the body (with wiring attached) being sat on the ground through some rain and snow for several months was enough for the rust to take over.

Refitting the petrol tank was a very tight fit, I think I should have routed the speedo cable a little lower to have avoided it completely, but all seems fine, and I was pleased to see the fuel gauge work when I reconnected it.

Still waiting for the spacers and the repaired door hinge before I can put the doors on, not that ive been putting it off /grin.

JB Weld

2009-03-28T10:15:00.000-07:00

Having broken the wiper mechanism last week, I removed the wiper pivot, cleaned up the area for fixing and am now waiting for the JB Weld to dry.

I thought it would be a five minute thing, but the tube says 6 hours!

The rear subframe tray was overlapping the engine tray, after trimming, a new foam seal could be fitted. ..and I got around to replacing a split heater tube.

Transplant completed, patient in coma...

2009-03-22T10:21:00.001-07:00

Whilst awaiting some new spacers for the door hinges (one of which is bent and needs to be repaired), I reconnected the cut wiring loom and managed to break the wiper mechanism (by activating the wipers with the mechanism obstructed by the windscreen stem! should have reconnected that ages ago!).

I still need to check through the wiring as theres a bad earth, I thought I had found it being the headlight connections corroded, but its just moved the problem. I spose I could do with a chesil wiring diagram as John Muir (Idiots Guide) doesnt have an immobiliser!

As far as the subframes concerned, the transplant is complete and was a success. In hind sight, using another makers subframe on a finished car is just not advisable. The main bodies may come from the same moulds, but there is alot of inner body fibreglassing to mount it to the subframe. I got lucky with the engine bay frame fitting, but that was about it....

Some of the subframe transplant issues:

cutting out the front fibreglass footwell from chesil inner body

the subframes footwell is longer as the steering column outer doesnt reach - needs sorting yet

cutting a couple of inches off each rear bumper arms from the subframe

replace subframes front bar for thinner chesil bar as it was obstructing everything behind dash

cut rear subframes catch support as it sat too high and stopped lid closing

cut bodies rear seat area as subframe support at rear was obstructing - again as if im trying to lower it too much, if anything it should be lower still.

Heres an update on the Chesil subframe, powder coated in 1994, rusted from the inside out and collapsing after 14 years:

Elbow Grease

2009-03-15T11:04:00.000-07:00

The hinge spacers which came off the last subframe...

I will need to try and try again to get the doors to fit nice and flush. More jobs done which wernt on the list though....

A few more days like this will see it right...

2009-03-01T15:46:00.000-08:00

Yet more jobs crossed off the list, and some which wernt even on it!

Did alot of dremmeling to remove the welds left from cutting the dash beam out, then after searching for some brackets to return the dash beam to its location - I cut the ones off the old subframe, and drilled/tapped them. - drilling and tapping went like a dream, mostly due to new drill bits and the multi speed drill which santa supplied, but also all the practice Ive had.

I needed to revise the brace Id previously made for the body to torsion bar, where it had cracked years ago, but now the body is attached to the front beam, the rear subframes attached to the chassis and everything lines up! /phew. The steering wheels attached (needs a little adjustment yet, but...

The seatbelt bolts dont quite line up, so thats some more unexpected work with fibreglass at some point.

I was thankfull for my notes for reconnecting the wires to the steering wheel, there seems alot for just left/right indicator.

Reconnecting the bonnet release didnt go so well as the cable was inside the sheaf and had fraid so didnt want to come out. Ah well, it cant all go well.

Throw those curtains wide....

2009-02-21T07:13:00.000-08:00

The sun came out for a while, so I managed to get a few jobs crossed off the long list. It looks a bit like its on stilts at the moment from being jacked up at the rear...

The Doors

2009-01-25T08:33:00.001-08:00

Well, I broke on through to the other side...

...And now the sills sit on the subframe sills, Ive only offered the door into its gap for a photo - no hinges drilled or attached yet but its a tight fit. I need to roll it out of the garage and eyeball the side to make sure the back isnt sitting too high (which would close the door gap).

Chop Shop

2008-12-30T09:09:00.001-08:00

I picked up some reinforced cutting wheels for the Dremmel, but didn’t get cutting on the front. I started thinking it may be better to relocate the bar under the dash, instead of cutting the inner panel, as the wiring and speedo go through near that area.

However, relocating the bar, would mean getting the body back off, getting someone around to weld some tabs on the door pillars to fit the bar which I removed from the old Chesil subframe.

So, whilst in the garage I put some attention to the rear of the subframe/body.

Even after removing the old chesil bonding, the rear seat area is still colliding with the subframe aswell as the front colliding.

Changing the rear subframe isn’t an option here, so I will need to cut a small piece out both sides of the rear seat to lower the body to rest on the subframe sills - which are still an inch too high at present.

So I’ve got even more fibreglassing to do. I just need to pluck up the courage and get cutting. The rear seat area will be covered in carpet so my fibreglassing skills or lack of will not be seen when the cars interior is finished. Although I’m treading close to the limit, I’m not quite out of my depth.. yet..

I took a few photos before giving up for the day...
The Chop Shop is on Discovery Turbo in an hour so hopefully Lipu's cutting, and Bernie's 'Get on with it' attitude, will inspire me for tomorrow *-).

2008-12-29T08:24:00.000-08:00

A New Year is about to begin, and my car is still a long way from completion...

When I was taking it apart, I was anticipating it being back together within a couple of months. LOL. My motivation dropped after getting the body back in the garage. It should have had the reverse affect, yet the weathers been cold.

Santa Claus managed to get a new drill and accessories down the chimney this year, so with a few spare days off work I couldn’t relax for the guilt of not making progress on my car.

I finally went back in the garage after five weeks and cut the loom in order to thread it through the subframe, I will worry about getting a multiplug later.

With the wiring loom out the way, I could lower the very tight fitting body further down... but not to its resting position yet as the main bar across the front is going to collide with the fibreglass inner body.

About an inch needs to be removed across the width of my car 8-(.

On the old chesil subframe, this bar was bolted in place so could be removed. However, the pilgrim design is welded in place and uses a different inner tray under the bonnet.

I managed to break all the ‘thin biscuit like’ cutting discs I had for the dremmel when I cut out the footwell previously, I’m not sure what they were meant for cutting?. So I will go and buy a proper cutting disc and get on the case tomorrow, and take some photos!!

All Together....

2008-11-22T05:19:00.000-08:00

The Body, subframe, and chassis are all back together! hurrah.

I still need to cut some more fibreglass from where the chesil subframe was bonded, as there isnt enough play to manouvre passed the subframes rear trailing legs, which are presently holding the rear up.

Still along way to go, but the end is in sight at last.

However, Ive all the wiring to reconnect, and steering column bracket to sort before lowering it, so with the body raised several inches, its handy at present.

In preparation for putting the body on, I obtained some primer adhesive for galvenised metal and smooth black paint to top it off. Although I plan to fabricate closing panels from fibreglass to give a more authentic look, the galvenised subframe would have still been visible in some areas.

Woops, I must have missed the door pillar when degreasing.

More drilling and tapping to come...

2008-10-31T08:27:00.000-07:00

The subframe looks superb, a big thanks to http://www.wjbwelding.co.uk/ for getting it to fit.

The subframes final position is dependant on some body bolts... so I need to get the body back on the subframe and position it to fit two bolts through the body to the front beam.

With the body in position, I can then mark the hole positions for the subframe to floorpan, and door hinges. Oh joy! I can then drill and tap the door pilars.

I needed to cut the footwell out of the fibreglass chesil body, as the footwell's built into the new subframe. I much prefer this design as it adds a little weight and protection to the otherwise very light frontend.

Many Hands make Light work

2008-10-13T02:45:00.000-07:00

Well it's sad to say Pilgrim have gone into receivership from what I understand, I found some links on the cobra forums confirming my thoughts.
So I've sourced another subframe which I think is a pilgrim or the same style at least, it's certainly not a chesil though as it doesn't have heating going through the sills. I will need to fabricate something to get the heat into the interior.
A big thanks to Frank Hand Galvanisers who are hot dipping it for me. They were very helpful and very quick turn around. Though I will want a black finish on the viewable areas I couldn't do without the corrosion resistance.

I should also be receiving the other headlight ring this week from Karman Konnection, they only had one in stock when I ordered. It's the tripple plated chrome ones. Ive been through three sets of cheap chrome rings overs the eight years of ownership. These ones will hopefully last 20 years plus.

Galvanize

2008-09-16T17:05:00.000-07:00

Ahh reminisce the chemical brothers as I push that button.
I phoned to chase up the subframe today...
OMG, to cut a long story short, it'll be a few weeks yet.

So as a distraction I've been looking at hoodrides and thinking about treating the camper.
I've been driving it to work each day and have fallen in love with it again.
It’s a bit tatty looking and steers like shooting a movie.
Maybe that’s why I can’t help but smile when I drive it. Or maybe it’s the queue of cars on my bumper, ahh makes a change!.

2008-09-08T04:07:00.000-07:00

Two weeks into an approximate 4 week leadtime for the galvanized subframe from Pilgrim, I'm
itching to get my car back together, but there aren't many jobs I can do until the subframe arrives.

The brake fluid bowl is attached through the body so I cant blead the brakes yet.

I had not done anything to protect the steering wheel since getting the car 8 years ago, so it had become very dry looking as the varnish had worn off long ago.

After sanding and polishing followed by a few coats of clear varnish and another light sand, it looks loads better.

Belt and Braces...

2008-08-14T13:13:00.000-07:00

The grey POR-15 arrived today, I'm really glad I decided to get the color change, you can see the 1st coat has some holes which I would otherwise have missed.

Naturally, with tin and brush in hand, I couldnt resist giving the top a coat of grey.

Ta-Da...

2008-08-13T15:18:00.000-07:00

The haynes manual says "Removal of the rear brake drums is a considerable task." Well, ta da - job done. Now I can get back on with getting my car back together.

I decided I would get some grey POR-15 to do the 2nd coat underneath. It's a nasty job, but having a colour change between coats will make it more satisfying and will help monitor it in future.

2008-08-13T01:19:00.001-07:00

Managed to get the first coat of POR15 on the underside, this time showing respect and running indoors to wash off any splatters as soon as they were felt. It wasn't a complete success as one splat wouldn't come off!
Found a couple of motivation photos. Air Suspension would be sweeeeeeeeeet...

2008-08-11T00:09:00.001-07:00

The sun finally came out, so I had another go degreasing the underside. This time I followed up with metal ready and after rinsing let it dry off. Whilst towel drying the overspray on the topside, I found the clips for the passenger side brake pads - oops, I thought I'd put them in a bit quick. It didnt take a few minutes to get the wheel off and put them back in.
Now I can get on painting the underside and wait for the 36mm socket.

Rained Off...

2008-08-11T00:03:00.000-07:00

Well my plans for the underside were rained off, so I figured I would go ahead and get the calipers painted and the porsche pattern discs on. I could have sworn I had a 36mm spanner or socket - but alas no, so will need to tackle the rear brakes after I receive the 36mm socket ordered from ebay.

Everything came apart nicely, the first caliper I painted came out rasberry colour! I think it takes a few minutes after applying the hardner and stirring for the paint to completely reach red. After a couple of coats, I still had some paint left - so painted the anti roll bar.

It's a good job the phone rang as I was about to paint the steering damper and then probably would have painted the control arms etc and would have run out half way through. I wouldn't have bothered painting the calipers if I wasnt putting alloys on.

Well 15 hours later the calipers were dry to touch but in putting the pads back in I managed to disturb the paint and also got them a bit dirty due to wearing dirty gloves Doh! I'd sealed the tin yesterday but was suprised to find it still useable - why don't the manufacturers just put the hardner in themselves?

After touching up the calipers I had the urge to paint something else again but managed not to. The rain finally stopped long enough to get a photo of my efforts.

2008-08-07T00:17:00.000-07:00

Waiting for the weekend to degrease the underside. I'm wanting to get all the pressure washer stuff out the way before I start on some upgrades like rear disk brakes and fuchs Ive had sitting around for a couple of years.

I've found a website of a guy who's rebuilding his replica as a proper replica! Anyone who loves the 356 and has owned a chesil will appreciate what hes doing - 'fixing' all those niggley things that remove from the viewing experience. There's only a handful of real speedsters in the UK, as far as I'm aware. You won't see them on the road outside of Porsche meetings. I dont know whether he plans to sell it after completion but I'm sure he would have a queue! http://www.speedstars.co.uk/.

2008-08-04T00:11:00.001-07:00

Having decided to keep my floors, it meant needing to remove all the old sealant and nails that held the old seal in place. I also went over everything with a drill and wire brush insert to remove any loose rust, flakes of paint etc. This worked well on the topside but will need a few more applications underside to completely remove the 14 years of road grime and waxoil!

The water hoover and pressure washer came in really handy and made the job alot more do-able.

I've degreased with marine clean, followed with the pressure washer to rinse, then hoover up any remaining water, let the sun dry the remainder off, then repeat the process with metal ready instead of marine clean, finally applying a couple of coats of POR15 and chassis black. This got the topside done, but Ill need to finish off degreasing the undereside another day. Despite my best efforts and wearing marigolds, I still managed to get some POR15 on my feet, hands, arms and face and I only painted the topside!. The POR15 was runnier than I expected, also it has a very shiny finish, i think I would have prefered matt. The chassis black was also quite shiny but looked a bit murky and duller than the POR15. I regret not getting a tin of grey aswell as black POR15 so that applying the 2nd and 3rd coats would be more satisfying to know where I've not been.

Whilst degreasing the underside I found the plugged up drain holes in the floor, I left them plugged as Id already painted the topside the previous day, and had drilled a hole in the marine boards to hoover any collected water through.

With the marine ply boards back in place I'm satisfied that I kept the floors, but from the time it's taken degreasing the underside it would have been cheaper to get new floors if a shop was doing this - but this is 'free time'. I remembered to repack the front beam with grease which squirted some water out in the process.

Drilling out Rusty Bolts...

2008-07-31T00:41:00.000-07:00

The M10 Tapset arrived today, just looking at them in the packet gave me a sense of dread at what lied ahead. If I messed it up, it wouldn't be the end of the world though, as there are things called helicoils...
thanks to http://coolercasesuk.co.uk/showthread.php?t=1211

It took several hours to get all the threads clear and working again, I thought that was the end of drilling out rusty bolts on this project... however, looking at the photo a little earlier reminded me that the rear bump stop bolts also need repairing to accept the new rubber bump stops which I've had sat in the garage for a couple of years.

I've also been having a rethink about my floors, I'm going ahead with the POR15 and hope to get some years out of them.
I think using heat shields, adhoc repairs could be done to them once the cars back together.
Anyway it has marine ply boards which sit over the top and bear the most weight. I'm going to drill a 'hoover' hole into the rear of ply boards so that I can hoover out any future water straight away and not repeat the 'puddle'.

... I also found a picture which has remotivated me to get a move on...

2008-07-30T03:04:00.000-07:00

Once the body was off I made a start on the subframe, all the bolts to the floorpan were a pain but eventually came off in pieces. The bolts to the rear suspension were the worst bolts so far, only one came out in tact easily, the other 3 I had to drill out almost completly, and will need to retap the existing threads before putting it back together. Ive found the size on thesamba.com is M10X1.5 and ive found a place namrick.co.uk to buy a tap. I read a suggestion to hacksaw an old bolt to use as a tap, but i think I'd lose a finger or two in an effort to save £8.

Now the subframe is removed Ive been able to start preparing the floor for paint, it's worse than I'd thought though, it takes my weight but has the sound of rotten metal in a couple of places. Ill need to replace the floor boards.

I've no welding equiptment and I've never tried welding, I know a man who can but has no kit. Depending how much it'll cost to replace the floorboards, it may make more sense to buy a welding machine and get a lesson or two - especially as we have a 1965 vw camper that needs restoring at some point.

Got the ride height sorted!

2008-07-30T03:02:00.001-07:00

Well I thought all the wires/etc were disconnected but found the last one prior to lifting - possibly to activate the reverse light as it was a thin wire connected to the gearbox. With the body off and on the ground the ride height looks sweet lol...

Getting ready for lift off!

2008-07-09T03:31:00.000-07:00

The rust buster didn't work as Id hoped, the windscreens still in place - i'll leave it there and have another go at the pillars once the body is off the subframe as there will be so much more room available for a spanner or drill (I may even use up the rust buster as it did come in a well designed bottle.)

The body is jacked an inch or so off the subframe and I've manoeuvred the wiring loom through the subframe so it can lift up with the body.

Ready for lift off!

Rust Busting...

2008-07-08T01:04:00.000-07:00

The stainless steel chesil exhaust I've got is a pain in de arse, design - the rear silencer needs to be removed to remove the engine, or to lift the body off.

Typically the three bolts holding the rear silencer were rusted solid, grinding and a hacksaw saw to them. I cant help thinking of the A-Team when the sparks are flying.
To be precautious I jacked the body at the back for support because the exhaust had been taking its weight since the subframe collapsed.
I also jacked the front, eased up the sides and supported them with some bits of wood, the drivers side felt like it could lift straight off, but the passenger side was really tight after a couple of inches. I'll be a bit braver once I've removed the windscreen, the windscreen pillar bolts have rusted solid and they are inaccessible to my tools other than an impossible looking few degrees with a spanner at finger tips best. I've ordered some rust buster from Frosts and hope it does what it implies.
After having spent the evening grinding & car jacking, I then relaxed? with a blast on GTA IV.

Some unexpected gardening...

2008-07-02T02:17:00.000-07:00

No problem with rusty nuts or bolts tonight, and access was easy with the battery cover removed. Disconnected the wiring loom from the engine bay, starter motor and engine earth without any issues.

I stood back to take a gulp of tea when something made me turn around - a massive plant on the side of our house has been wrapping itself around a downpipe for several years. I had turned round in time to watch it slowly fall off the side of the house taking the downpipe with it like a felled tree. So some unexpected gardening has halted progress for now.

Preparation before removing the body...

2008-07-01T00:24:00.000-07:00

I found some fibreglass wrapping the bottom of the front door pillars. Only a couple of inches each side which came off easily after some work with a Stanley knife, hammer and screwdriver.

I lifted the drivers side a couple of inches and put it back down, the passenger side still wont budge. Good job really as I still need to remove the windscreen, drain some brake fluid and detatch the wiring from the starter motor and engine earth - before I get carried away trying to lift it.

Removing the Doors...

2008-06-30T01:06:00.000-07:00

Pushed the car out of the garage ready to tackle the doors.

Well the impact screw driver was crap (and none of that bad workman
blames his tools!). So I've ended up having to drill out the stubborn screws on the bottom hinges, both to the doors and to the door pillars, 12 in all.

Several broken drill bit later, the doors are off!
What could have taken 20 minutes, took 3 hours - plus interruptions and tea breaks six hours had passed.

I'd hoped the body would feel loose from the subframe with the doors off, but its still solid at the front. More pop rivets to find or more probably the sealant has remained effective on the none rusty front end.

Having only undone two bolts to the body in the engine bay, and removed some sealant with a Stanley blade, the back end feels like its ready to lift off.

Newark Kit Car Show

2008-06-23T08:43:00.000-07:00

We went to the Newark kitcar show on Sunday and saw Kevin’s Speedster; it has bags of character and looks gorgeous. The door pillars distance is the same as my Chesil so although I still can’t get anyone to confirm, I’m pretty sure the Pilgrim subframe should work with my fibreglass body. Pilgrim were at the show with some products but didn’t have a speedster with them.

I’ve finally ordered an impact screwdriver to remove the doors, and have spent some more time desealing my fibreglass body from the subframe; this was mainly pop rivets and a black rubbery seal. Once the doors are off, ill be able to test lift the body to see where it’s still attached.

Removing the roof...

2008-06-20T00:35:00.001-07:00

Removed the roof and it started raining again so the doors can wait for now, I'm in no urgency and don't want working on my car to become a chore. I've got about 20 litres of fuel to siphon out before I remove the petrol tank and then the steering column is easy access. I reckon the petrol was only 1.12 a litre when it was purchased so I've made a killing ;-).Whilst feeling rich from my fuel storage profit I quickly ordered the stuff to treat the vw chassis.

I opted for marine clean, metal prep, POR-15 and Black Chassis paint from Frosts, I'm only wanting to do this once and several VW restorations I've seen online have gone this route with their beetles.

I finally saw the Dream Machines episode where they build a Pilgrim Speedster, 5 blokes lifted the subframe onto the chassis - looks like Ill need to get some beers in unless they all just wanted to get in the shot in case they were otherwise edited out.

I cant believe some of the questions I was asking now - like whether to leave the doors hood and engine lid on when removing the body/subframe. The doors must come off to remove the body as they bolt through it, but from the look of things the hood and engine lid are just attached to the body, same as the window wiper motor so Ill leave them there if I can.The windscreen comes off easy enough and must come off, not only to reduce weight for the lift but its safer where it is for now.

Day two

2008-06-18T00:51:00.000-07:00

Really this is just evening two, having only spent two hours last night I only managed an hour and a half this evening.
Things started well, the remainder of the interior has been stripped and the wooden floorboards removed... ....to find a massive puddle on the passenger side floor!!. Fortunately the floor is still solid and can be saved. That puddles probably been in the car since the first time the car got caught in the rain after I bought it.

The drivers side was surprisingly bone dry, but it has had a big hole in the subframe the last couple of weeks to let any water out and air in I suppose.

I did plan on taking the hood frame off but the bolts are rusted tight so I'll need to grind them off, I left it too late this evening to be making noise, so will tackle that when I get in from work tomorrow.
So I began taking a door off to find that the bottom hinge screws are also rusted, I daren't look at the passenger side. Ill need to get the car out of the single garage to have a better try with the door wide open and maybe an impact wrench, but it started raining - sods law. An excuse to go indoors to get the camera - woo France vs. Italy on TV. Ahh well there's always tomorrow!

On the plus side of progress, if weather permits at the weekend I'm planning to finally see a pilgrim speedster up close (thanks to Kevin Pearl).

Restoration Day 1

2008-06-17T01:36:00.000-07:00

Welcome to my first 356 Speedster Restoration blog post. I've just started this blog for my partner who has a 356 replica Speedster. This lovely classic motor car is in desperate need of some work after being neglected for several years.
I thought it would be a nice idea to record the restoration along the way. The picture above was taken a few years ago on our way down to St Tropez. We've had some amazing adventures in this lovely little motor car, I just can't wait to see it when it's back on the road.

My partners owned the car as his daily driver for 8 years but it was built in 1994 by Chesil. A few weeks ago he noticed a knocking noise coming from the rear passenger side on uneven roads and later found that the subframe had rusted and broken behind the drivers door pillar.

With a guestimate of a couple of hundred pounds to cut out and weld a repair he took it to a local vw restorer who soon found that it requires quite a bit more metal replacing and will need the body removed to tackle it. Being busy themselves with customer commitments they wouldnt be able to tackle the job for a few months at least and having no experience with the kits they couldnt give a quote on how much it would cost.

Well at first he was horrified, he had bought the car 'factory built' as neither having the time nor patience to build a kit himself. The task initially sounded daunting, but after seeing some helpful build sites :

http://www.toddtown.com/Article.aspx?name=Todd's%20Diary%20of%20Building%20a%20Porsche%20Speedster%20Replica%20-%20Page%202

http://www.hambly.org.uk/chesil/build_index.htm

And after a few telephone conversations with Tony at Pilgrim, he felt better knowing his task was going to be quicker and easier than building the car from a beetle starting point.

The fibreglass body needs to be removed so that the subframe can be repaired or replaced. The VW chassis is in good condition so just needs a rub down and rust prevention/repaint.
Pilgrim offer a galvensized subframe which seems to be the best option. Chesil are nolonger in business and Tygan nolonger offer the car as a kit.
However, he’s still to confirm if the Chesil body mould will sit onto a Pilgrim subframe without much modification. A trip to see a Pilgrim speedster with a tape measure and camera seems the best that can be done prior to trying it.
After a day of tidying up and making space in our garage, he was ready to get the car home from the restorers.

Day 1 (16th June 2008)

Brought car home and started to strip the interior, can now get a better look at the extent of the damage and can see how and where the body is pop riveted/bonded and bolted to the subframe. Ripping the carpets from their glued backing wasnt too painful as he intended to replace the interior for a more authentic replication at some point in the future anyway.