Drilling out Rusty Bolts...

The M10 Tapset arrived today, just looking at them in the packet gave me a sense of dread at what lied ahead. If I messed it up, it wouldn't be the end of the world though, as there are things called helicoils...
thanks to http://coolercasesuk.co.uk/showthread.php?t=1211

It took several hours to get all the threads clear and working again, I thought that was the end of drilling out rusty bolts on this project... however, looking at the photo a little earlier reminded me that the rear bump stop bolts also need repairing to accept the new rubber bump stops which I've had sat in the garage for a couple of years.

I've also been having a rethink about my floors, I'm going ahead with the POR15 and hope to get some years out of them.
I think using heat shields, adhoc repairs could be done to them once the cars back together.
Anyway it has marine ply boards which sit over the top and bear the most weight. I'm going to drill a 'hoover' hole into the rear of ply boards so that I can hoover out any future water straight away and not repeat the 'puddle'.

... I also found a picture which has remotivated me to get a move on...

Once the body was off I made a start on the subframe, all the bolts to the floorpan were a pain but eventually came off in pieces. The bolts to the rear suspension were the worst bolts so far, only one came out in tact easily, the other 3 I had to drill out almost completly, and will need to retap the existing threads before putting it back together. Ive found the size on thesamba.com is M10X1.5 and ive found a place namrick.co.uk to buy a tap. I read a suggestion to hacksaw an old bolt to use as a tap, but i think I'd lose a finger or two in an effort to save £8.

Now the subframe is removed Ive been able to start preparing the floor for paint, it's worse than I'd thought though, it takes my weight but has the sound of rotten metal in a couple of places. Ill need to replace the floor boards.

I've no welding equiptment and I've never tried welding, I know a man who can but has no kit. Depending how much it'll cost to replace the floorboards, it may make more sense to buy a welding machine and get a lesson or two - especially as we have a 1965 vw camper that needs restoring at some point.

Got the ride height sorted!

Well I thought all the wires/etc were disconnected but found the last one prior to lifting - possibly to activate the reverse light as it was a thin wire connected to the gearbox. With the body off and on the ground the ride height looks sweet lol...

Getting ready for lift off!

The rust buster didn't work as Id hoped, the windscreens still in place - i'll leave it there and have another go at the pillars once the body is off the subframe as there will be so much more room available for a spanner or drill (I may even use up the rust buster as it did come in a well designed bottle.)



The body is jacked an inch or so off the subframe and I've manoeuvred the wiring loom through the subframe so it can lift up with the body.

Ready for lift off!

Rust Busting...

The stainless steel chesil exhaust I've got is a pain in de arse, design - the rear silencer needs to be removed to remove the engine, or to lift the body off.

Typically the three bolts holding the rear silencer were rusted solid, grinding and a hacksaw saw to them. I cant help thinking of the A-Team when the sparks are flying.
To be precautious I jacked the body at the back for support because the exhaust had been taking its weight since the subframe collapsed.
I also jacked the front, eased up the sides and supported them with some bits of wood, the drivers side felt like it could lift straight off, but the passenger side was really tight after a couple of inches. I'll be a bit braver once I've removed the windscreen, the windscreen pillar bolts have rusted solid and they are inaccessible to my tools other than an impossible looking few degrees with a spanner at finger tips best. I've ordered some rust buster from Frosts and hope it does what it implies.
After having spent the evening grinding & car jacking, I then relaxed? with a blast on GTA IV.

Some unexpected gardening...

No problem with rusty nuts or bolts tonight, and access was easy with the battery cover removed. Disconnected the wiring loom from the engine bay, starter motor and engine earth without any issues.

I stood back to take a gulp of tea when something made me turn around - a massive plant on the side of our house has been wrapping itself around a downpipe for several years. I had turned round in time to watch it slowly fall off the side of the house taking the downpipe with it like a felled tree. So some unexpected gardening has halted progress for now.

Preparation before removing the body...

I found some fibreglass wrapping the bottom of the front door pillars. Only a couple of inches each side which came off easily after some work with a Stanley knife, hammer and screwdriver.

I lifted the drivers side a couple of inches and put it back down, the passenger side still wont budge. Good job really as I still need to remove the windscreen, drain some brake fluid and detatch the wiring from the starter motor and engine earth - before I get carried away trying to lift it.